Liqui Moly 20228 Molygen 5W30 Motor Oil زيت محرك مولي جين الجيل الجديد 5W30 طراز 20228

I run a 2017 Dodge Grand Caravan with the flex fuel Pentastar 3.6. I run full time as a rideshare driver so engine wear is always on my mind.I never heard of Liqui Moly until a few months ago when I saw a post on Jalopnik about using oil drain canisters. I did my research and took the bite and order this stuff from a large online auction site hoping to get the small 1 litre bottles. I ended up with two or the large 5L jugs of this stuff. For us ‘Mericans, each 5L jugs holds 5.23 quarts so past the smallest engines go on ahead and buy 2 jugs and keep the extra for top offs or the next oil change. Interestingly, though German in origin, the hash marks on the side of the bottle measure quarts. (I tried to see if I can get 6 quarts into a jug and the answer is no, not close enough with the air pocket.)All premium oils have a gimmick to sell themselves. Liqui Moly is German, and sells well in Europe because even crappy stuff built in Germany tends to shame the best of engineering and manufacturing in other nations. The “moly” in the brand name comes from Molybendum, a natural element found on Earth that looks like gray dust. Rub this dust between your fingers and if feels slippery. In World War II, military scientists were using Molybendum suspended in liquids as a lubricant additive to make lubricants last longer while yielding less heat and shear. Because Molybendum is an element, it cannot really break down because it is already at the atomic level. The Liqui Moly company adapted molybendum into an engine additive and made a fortune because the additive was one of the few sold anywhere on Earth that did what the label promised. The motor oils are a relatively new product for the old Liqui Moly company.The brand has many, many different oil variants that are certified by the API, which is the second most important piece of info you need to know after what is the correct weight of oil to use in your car (the number with the “W” in it.). I work on my own cars and was trying to diagnose some spilled oil in the engine bay, so I bough this stuff which as a UV tracer in it to track leaks, in addition to the fancy moly stuff I described earlier.Putting this oil in was experience in itself. The jug it comes in has an integrated pour sport, and when used with a funnel you dont get the splash back of the wide mouth bottles. The large centered handle makes it easy to pour with one steady hand. Yeah, it may seem esoteric to write a review of motor oil by describing the packaging but quality products come well packaged (think Apple, or Anker here on AZN). The cap folds flush into the neck of the bottle so it is a ready candidate for long cross country trips. I kept my empty jug for cleaning and repurposing later (I want to test it for moving coolant without spills for my van on cross countries).This is unlike any oil I ever used. Its is Homer J. Simpson radioactive green in color. It looks like Hi-C Ecto Cooler drink from the late 80s. Rub it in your fingers it is smooth and slippery. You would almost think that the oil is the wrong weight if you tried to judge it by feel alone. No matter in the engine it goes. Though not wholly necessary on many modern engine designs, I still “start” my filters with fresh oil to insert them wet. My van’s factory oil cooler has a bypass trap to make sure there is always some oil available upon startup before the pumps get to work, but some old school is ok.My van’s oil life indicator is algorithmic in nature, taking into account ambient temperature, engine run time (Uber driving involves hundreds of idling hours, which is not great for engine wear), miles driven, and so on. After I dropped in the green stuff on Memorial Day, I reset the change indicator, documented the mileage and went to work. I check my oil every 30 hours or so and the green UV dye held up for about 3,000 miles of taxicab style driving in Chicago. For miles 3,001 to 7,000 the oil remained a bright amber color, similar to what pours out of a new Pennzoil Platimum High Mileage bottle. As July wore on and got hot, the oil began to darken on the dip stick. Though with synthetics oils tactile and olfactory measures of old oil are obsolete, I still rub oil off the dip stick between my fingers and take a whiff to give me hints on engine operation. This stuff was a slippery and smooth as the day I put it in the engine. And it smelled like…nothing. At all. The oil life sensor requested an oil. Oil change at 8,400 ,miles and I just vacuumed out my first Liqui Moly. Though slightly clear still on the dipstick, it collectively drained dark brown with orange and amber tones in the light. The filter element went from bright white to dark brown with no particles or sludge. If you worked on cars for a long time, you may know what used motor oil smells like after collected from an engine. This stuff has no stench or odor after 8,500 hard miles of summer city driving.I’m going to send in my used Liqui Moly oil in for an oil analysis, but I truly think this oil could have served without risk or fail until the 10,000 mile maximum ceiling for oil changes in the Grand Caravan. This stuff looked far better than the Royal Purple high mileage I used to run in my Volvo XC90 3.2 after the same mileage. I am truly impressed by the performance of this stuff. No, i did not get any measurable gas mileage improvements but throttle response is perfect and there is no abnormal engine noise. I run E85 full time and drive my city hard. I think that the molygen oil held up amazingly well, and I’ll come back to update after I get the oil analysis done.Only cons are that the 1 liter bottles are ruinously expensive. I ordered exactly one molygen 1 litre from AZN to have as a measure to get the 6 quarts needed for my old change and have it on hand to avoid lugging 2 jugs from my apartment. I have been having a bit of issue getting the dipstick to level at the very top of the safe hash mark, I think because of how the Liqui Moly flows through the oil passages in the Pentastar, which is spec’ed for dino oil. No harm will come to the engine, but be sure to add your oil based on the capacity stated in your manual, and once you get the fill level to the low part of the “safe” mark of your dip stick, drive your car around for a shakedown run, with some left over Liqui Moly in the back seat. Check the level after a time and top off a little at a time as needed. For average driving, the middle to the top of the “safe” mark on the dip stick is fine, just avoid over filling.Use the Liqui Moly website to get a match for the correct fluid for your car. In addition to the SAE weight, Liqui Moly has their own specification and classification system, especially for certain Euro makes. Start at that website, then come back to Azn to buy what is recommended for your whip.

Quality oil for my powerboost. Running this, a bottle if zinc additive and a wix filter is my recipe to long engine life. I change my oil every 5000 miles.Oil doesn’t burn like royal purple’s dye does. the zinc additive adds a layer of soft metal to my cam shafts and adds a layer of lubricants to my turbo system. The wix is one of the few that doesn’t use a cardboard drain back design and sticks to metal.Oil changes are cheap, cars aren’t.. 5k oil changes will save you thousands in repairs.